Welcome to Lesson 2
of the Online Beginners Tatting Class!
Welcome back! Glad you could join us again.
Goals this lesson
There are several different motions you may have to make to position your work properly when transitioning between the element you just made and the next one you'll need to make.
Georgia Seitz explained this very well in an On-Line Tatting Class some time ago.
Click here for that lesson.
In your tatting, you will want to connect elements together. You'll make these connections between the element you are tatting to a previous element's picot.
Needle tatters join to a picot by poking their needle through that picot, then casting on ds's after as usual.
Shuttle tatters will need to pull a loop of ring thread from above their pinch through the picot. Pass the shutttle through that loop, then pull out the slack of the ring thread
until it is as tight around the core (shuttle) thread as a regular half stitch. The shuttle thread will be in the position it would be as if you flipped it;
so be careful that you don't unflip when tensioning this join. The shuttle tatter's join counts as one half stitch, so make the second half of the ds after the join to complete the
first ds of the next set of ds's in your pattern.
For a series of photos showing a join from one ring to another,
Sometimes you'll hit a spot where a bunch of rings will be made one after the other with their bases touching. Joining the first ring to the last
ring in such a flower is kind of challenging because of the angle that your current ring approaches the first ring. The picot is not in the
position it should be for easy joining.
Check out Jackie Reynolds' explanation of how to make the folded join
Guess what! If you practiced double stitches like we asked in the meet-and-greet lesson,
then you've made chains! Chains are the nice arcs of double stitches that you see connecting rings.
To make a chain after a ring, you will need to reverse your work so that the base of the ring will be up and the back of the ring is facing
you. The ball thread will be the thread on the left, and the thread coming from the ring (shuttle or needle) on the right. Make your ds's tight
to the base of the last element made. Gapsosis is to be avoided, so watch your starts carefully.Click here for a page on rings and chains by Tammy Rodgers. http://www.georgiaseitz.com/newtat/tammyrodgersneedletatdiagrams.pdf
Continuous thread method You may have already seen "CTM" in patterns. This means starting to tat with
the working thread continuously connected to the ball (or other shuttle), rather than cutting the thread and knotting the two together. You will
save yourself dealing with 2 thread ends to deal with each time you start CTM.
To wind 2 shuttles CTM, wind the first shuttle as full as necessary. Then pull enough thread off the ball to wind the second shuttle as full as
you need it to be. You can wind onto a thread holder first (or the outside of the first shuttle), then onto your second shuttle. That way you
will avoid dealing with knotted thread during winding of the second shuttle.
Tatting over tails Inevitably somewhere you will find
that you must start with ends knotted together (such as when working with 2 colors, or you have to add a thread when running out). You can hide
the ends as you go by tatting over the tails - that is to say, get those thread ends to follow the core thread to be hidden inside the double
stitches as you make them (so you don't have to sew them in later).
And please read:
and Tammy's excellent illustrations of hiding the tail http://www.georgiaseitz.com/rodgers/carnation.html
Shuttle tatters can deal with them in 2 different ways.
Long ends: use adhesive tape or other favorite removable adhesive to attach the thread end to your shuttle, then tat as normal. That way, your
thread end will automatically wind up in the core when you flip each stitch. Remember, tension more tightly because you have two threads instead
of one to squish in there.
Ends too short to tape: each time you flip a half stitch, use the pick on your shuttle (or your crochet hook or
your fingers) to guide the thread end through the flipped stitch. On the first half, you will guide from the back and up through the stitch; on
the second half, from the front and down. Then tension the stitch - and tension harder than normal due to the double thickness inside.
Last, either can hide ends in single-thread tatting
Sewing in thread ends
You will need to add another item to your tatting tool kit: Tapestry Needle (a needle with a big eye for your thread, and a blunt end so that you
do not split your threads when sewing in). Lily Morales explained how she sews in her ends in
Hiding Ends Lily's Way.
How far should you sew in or tat over tails?
This is difficult to answer, but depends mostly upon the tatted item, the size of the rings/chains, and its intended use (heavily laundered?
framed and not handled?)
How far should you sew in or tat over tails?
This is a difficult subject, and one that will take you some
experimentation. It varies based upon the use of the object. There is basically one rule of thumb: try not to allow the thread end to exit from
a picot (meaning between the double stitches of a picot). I try to go 6 double stitches at least.
One last tip:For best results, avoid
stopping your sew-in or tatting over tails between the double stitches before and after a picot. Stop 1/2 stitch short or go at least 1/2-1
stitch past. Otherwise, you a) risk cutting the picot threads when trimming (yikes!) and b) the thread ends clipped at this location can
sometimes loosen and poke out at you.
Awareness Ribbon by Lenore English
Hen and Chicks Pattern. This one is a good practice pattern if
you're trying to learn to read charts. If you have difficulty with starting the tatting, check out this tutorial (warning, large file to download):
Hen and Chicks Tutorial (2meg)
Bonus pattern: Communion Cloth Edging by Debbie Drake.
Have fun, We will see you in class.
Reverse, Turn and Rotate
Joining one ring to another
Folded join video
Hiding Ends in Single-Thread Tatting
Hiding Ends Lily's Way